Chicatanas
A traditional delicacy on the Oaxacan Coast
The state of Oaxaca has some of the best cuisine in Mexico. One of its unique culinary offerings are chicatanas. These large winged ants that only make an appearance once a year are an integral part of the state’s gastronomic identity. In fact, chicatanas are endemic to the area. They’re an integral part of the environment and culture. While they exist in other parts of Mexico, they are only famous in the regional gastronomy of Oaxaca.
So, if you visit Oaxaca, you’re sure to encounter chicatanas, whether in salsa or simply as a salty snack, you should be able to try this unique treat if interested.
What are chicatanas?
Chicatanas are flying ants, also known as Mexican leaf cutting ants, that come out from their underground nests in the first rains of the year. Locals excitedly await their appearance each year, waking up in the early morning to catch them. Of course, chicatanas aren’t simply a unique delicacy, they’re a symbol of cultural heritage and offer a great connection to the land.
In fact, chicatanas have been consumed in the region for thousands of years, since pre-Hispanic times. Insects offer proteins and other nutrients to families both in rural and urban areas. Since chicatanas only come out once a year, they are also able to repopulate and maintain the ecosystem.
While chicatanas were once considered a “poor man’s” food, that is no longer the case. Many local families get up early in the morning after the first rains to harvest or pick chicatanas to sell to local markets, chefs, restaurants or tourists. The price of chicatanas has increased since more intrepid people are curious to try them, and collecting them is not an easy task.
There are several ways that Oaxacans use to collect their chicatanas. If it is for minimum consumption, even they are lying dead on the ground, with the first light of day. Those who collect them for sale or for consumption throughout the year, catch them by hand, when they have just emerged from their underground nests to die. And they put them all together in a deep container. During the process, the harvesters are constantly bitten by another variety of ant, which also comes out of the same nest.
How are chicatanas prepared?
Chicatanas are roasted on a comal and seasoned with salt and other spices. The cooking process removes the wings and actually preserves them. This way you can enjoy chicatanas year-round if you plan accordingly.
The most popular way in which chicatanas are prepared is in a salsa. The process of making the chicatana salsa is quite simple. Traditionally, cooked chicatanas are blended in a molcajete (mortar and pestle) with salt and other spices (often chili and garlic). Water is added to achieve the intended viscosity. Another option is to blend all the ingredients. You can use the salsa on top of your favorite dishes. A local favorite is slathering it on top of tamales. Of course you can add it to quesadillas, in soups, or on top of your morning eggs! The options truly are endless for your chicatana salsa.
Another popular way to consume chicatanas in Oaxaca is actually mixed in with Chapulines (grasshopper). Chapulines are a popular delicacy in Mexico. They’re often eaten toasted, salted as a snack along with a beer. In fact, entomophagy (eating of insects) is common practice in Mexico. Though the offerings will vary depending on the region in which you find yourself. In Oaxaca, you can often find chicatanas and Chapulines mixed together in this salty, addictive snack.
While chicatanas are most known in the gastronomy of Oaxaca, they are definitely an acquired taste. The taste of a prepared chicatana is earthy, smoky, and bitter. And, they’re crunchy! Many love the unique flavor, however, others not so much. There are plenty of Oaxacans who aren’t fans either, even though it’s such a famous part of the gastronomy. For many, the idea of eating insects is just too much to handle and not at all appetizing. Others anxiously await for chicatana season or make their chicatana salsa last the entire year.
Chicatanas’ cultural importance
While chicatanas are gaining attention and popularity both domestically and internationally, they are much more than just a hip dish. Chicatanas hold a deeper significance to the communities that harvest them. Indeed, locals fondly remember going chicatana hunting with their families and then making and enjoying chicatana salsa. Likewise, for many indigenous communities, gathering chicatanas is a communal activity that promotes unity and shared identity.
However, in recent years, locals have noticed less chicatanas. This may be due to “overharvesting” since the delicacy has become somewhat trendy not only in Oaxaca but all over the country. High end restaurants are offering these flying ants as a complement to their menu items. As such, the promotion of sustainable harvesting practices is pertinent. Awareness of the layered significance of chicatanas is key in preserving not only the insect themselves but also their cultural heritage.
If you’re visiting the region, try the local dish! You’re sure to get the opportunity. Whether you see it on the menu of a high end restaurant or buy a handmade bottle in the local market, chicatana cuisine is a great way to get a taste of the rich Oaxacan culture.